The bountiful and beautiful Bay of Islands
How did I face the daily commute in London during my OE? Packed like sardines, dour expressions reflecting 4 months of grey winter, I took the advice of Julie Andrews. Thinking of “my favourite things” transported me to the shimmering waters of the beautiful Bay of Islands.
Roberton Island, Bay of Islands.
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Ah, the Bay of Islands, that aquatic playground, with 144 islands to explore and umpteen opportunities for fun, adventure or downright laziness.
A novice to the area might, like me, start with the calm waters of the ferry crossing from Paihia to Russell. Sitting on the open deck of the boat with the rhythmic humming of the engine and a few splashes of rogue wave to delight the senses, who could help but smile. And of course, the anticipation of arriving in Russell - always in sight and with the promise of fish & chips on the wharf or watching the sunset descend in the distance behind the lawns of Waitangi with a gin and tonic.
Having found my sealegs though, I decided to tackle greater things – a sailing course in bays that were plentiful, varied and, I was promised, safer than any others to learn in. After 2 days with a skipper my friend and I were given sole charge of the 35 ft yacht we had been taught on, with now but a set of maps and our sense of adventure.
Sailing in the Bay of Islands
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The exhilarating fear we felt as our boat breached with the catching winds as we sailed our way through open expanses of glistening blue waters was matched only by our sheer joy at finding our own private bay (surely an incentive to come outside of the busy season), only a 5 minute shaky row to a beach packed full of cockles and on the shores of a million dollar mansion. Diving off the bow of our boat the silky waters refreshed our swashbuckling bones and we found a bed of plump scallops in its crystal clear depths. Even our fishing rods, nonchalantly hanging from the back of the boat, contributed to the evening’s feast with two fat snapper. We dined that night on the deck of our boat with white wine and fresh seafood that has never tasted so good and slept the sleep of exhausted children.
In later days and on tinnies, sail boats, cruising boats and even a tall ship I would experience many more unforgettable delights - dolphins surfing the break of our boat and letting me swim amongst them, snorkelling around the lagoons of Roberton Island, cruising through the Hole in the Rock and coming across a flock of gannets as they dive-bombed into a school of trevally so huge the ocean looked like a boiling couldron. Learning the fascinating history of the Islands too, from the point where Captain Cook first landed in New Zealand, to the bloody accounts of the first settlers added to their romance and captivation.
Those sublime, adventurous, lazy days – being in, on and under the waters of the Bay of Islands provided many a favourite thing for this homesick kiwi.
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